China · Contemporary collar-led tailoring
New Chinese Style
New Chinese Style brings Chinese dress references into contemporary wardrobes through construction, proportion and material. This tailored interpretation uses a doubled mandarin collar and a long black jacket with ivory wide-leg trousers, a quiet underlayer and low leather loafers.
New Chinese Style is an established but broad fashion label. This guide presents one designer-led tailoring direction, rather than a single national uniform or a reconstruction of historical dress.
History
Vogue’s October 2024 reporting describes varied contemporary Chinese design approaches and the appeal of mandarin-collar jackets. Samuel Guì Yang’s AW25 Qi Jacket supplies the specific construction reference for this guide.
What defines the look
Read the selected garment on its own terms. The Qi jacket uses small central press buttons, patch pockets and a doubled standing collar; adding ornamental knot closures would change the design. Its length and soft fabric allow it to work with contemporary trousers. This is distinct from recreating a complete historical ensemble or assembling an outfit around a qipao. The illustrated pairing also changes the maker’s all-black styling: ivory trousers separate the layers and make the jacket’s outline easier to see. Other designers approach the broader label through different fabrics, shapes and references.
Hair & styling details
A neat dark bun and restrained rose lip follow the inspected contemporary Chinese styling reference while keeping the collar clear.
A cropped hairstyle or hair tucked behind the ears also reveals the neckline. Grooming and casting are illustration choices, not rules for wearing the style.
An illustrated outfit study
One way to put the pieces together
Samuel Guì Yang’s double-collar black jacket is re-paired with a white underlayer, ivory wide-leg trousers and black penny loafers in an original contemporary outfit. The illustration interprets visible details; it cannot establish hidden construction.
The 4 pieces & their references
Documented references, with current availability unverified. Open each reference note to see what the source establishes.
Double-collar black jacket
Samuel Guì Yang · Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, as named by maker
Long straight black jacket, doubled standing collar, eight small central press buttons, two lower patch pockets, left chest pocket and gently flared cuffs.
View the double-collar black jacket referenceAbout this reference
Product page and individually inspected product photograph. Individually inspected photograph: jacket.jpg
Subtle woven check, button marbling and inner collar construction are simplified. No frog fastenings appear on this design. Collar layers are subtle in the drawing rather than a technical construction diagram. The jacket is more waisted, and its rendered texture is heavier and more decorative than the fine tonal product weave. Trouser satin stripes and fine shoe details are simplified.
Review date unless a source collection is explicitly stated; exact manufacture dates and current availability are unverified.
- Model name
- AW25 Qi Jacket
- Manufacture date
- Unverified
- Materials
- Maker lists 100% viscose body, tonal Oxford check and white crepe lining.
White layering camisole
UNIQLO · Source inspected 9 October 2026
White fitted knit, scoop neckline and narrow adjustable straps with a clean edge.
View the white layering camisole referenceAbout this reference
Product page and individually inspected product photograph. Individually inspected photograph: cami.jpg
Mostly concealed in this outfit; support, fit and comfort are untested.
Review date unless a source collection is explicitly stated; exact manufacture dates and current availability are unverified.
- Model name
- AIRism Bra Camisole, 473977 / 482185, White
- Manufacture date
- Unverified
- Materials
- Maker lists alternative polyester, cupro and spandex blends; exact supplied composition varies.
Ivory wide-leg trousers
Safiyaa · Spring/Summer 2026 collection, as named by maker
Smooth high waistband, wide straight legs, crisp front creases and tonal satin side stripes.
View the ivory wide-leg trousers referenceAbout this reference
Product page and individually inspected product photograph. Individually inspected photograph: trousers-detail.jpg
Shown with different shoes and a waistcoat by the maker. Editorial hem adjustment exposes the selected loafers.
Review date unless a source collection is explicitly stated; exact manufacture dates and current availability are unverified.
- Model name
- Alessa Trouser in Ivory, SS26
- Manufacture date
- Unverified
- Materials
- Maker lists polyester/elastane shell with satin contrast and a stretch lining.
Black penny loafers
G.H.BASS · Source inspected 9 October 2026
Rounded moccasin toe, stitched apron, cut-out penny saddle, beefroll detailing and low stacked heel.
View the black penny loafers referenceAbout this reference
Product page and individually inspected product photograph. Individually inspected photograph: shoes.jpg
Stitching and polish are approximated. These loafers are an editorial addition; walking fit has not been tested.
Review date unless a source collection is explicitly stated; exact manufacture dates and current availability are unverified.
- Model name
- Whitney Weejuns Penny Loafer, Black, 14333433
- Manufacture date
- Unverified
- Materials
- Maker lists leather upper, insole and sole.
Build your own look
Pieces to start with
- Mandarin-collar jacket
- Let the collar and closure provide the focal point. Check that the neck stands comfortably and the shoulders allow reaching; avoid a heavy scarf that hides the construction.
- Plain underlayer
- A smooth camisole or fine T-shirt adds coverage without crowding the neckline. Keep its visible edge quiet if the jacket has a layered collar.
- Wide tailored trousers
- Choose a fabric that falls cleanly beneath the jacket. Set the hem for the shoes you will actually wear, leaving the trouser legs free of the ground.
- Low leather loafers
- A simple rounded loafer finishes the tailored line. Keep the toe visible below the hem so the lower half does not become a single block.
A palette to try
Colors for this interpretation. Adapt them to your own wardrobe.
Ways to put it together
Styling suggestions from Coreification.
- Illustrated outfit: black double-collar jacket + white camisole + ivory wide-leg trousers + black penny loafers. Open only the upper fastening for a small white edge.
- Everyday variation: a short standing-collar cotton jacket + plain T-shirt + straight dark jeans + simple canvas shoes. Keep the jacket’s fastening visible.
- Soft evening variation: a silk-textured standing-collar blouse + fluid midi skirt + low closed-toe shoes. Repeat one fabric sheen instead of adding multiple decorative motifs.
Find pieces
Useful searches: contemporary Chinese designer mandarin collar jacket · double layer standing collar jacket · ivory wide leg tailored trousers · black penny loafers
Sources & further reading
These sources inform the cultural account. References for the illustrated pieces appear with the outfit above.
- Vogue — What is Chinese style today?
October 2024 reporting discusses contemporary Chinese designers and mandarin-collar jackets. Tasha Liu outfit and Shanghai street photographs inspected. Broad reportage; one tailored outfit cannot represent all Chinese fashion.
- Samuel Guì Yang — AW25 Qi Jacket
Primary maker identifies double-layer mandarin collar, long narrow body, marbled press buttons and viscose fabric. Model and isolated garment photographs inspected. The maker’s complete black suit is a reference; ivory trousers and loafers are an original editorial pairing.